"If alternatives exist in ways to turn the fun on then there's more health all around. Whatever gives you the fun. Go for it."
Derek Hynd in Surfing World 296 (2009)
"If alternatives exist in ways to turn the fun on then there's more health all around. Whatever gives you the fun. Go for it."
"A lost art in surfing is the bloody swim to the beach... getting washed in and thinking during the swims. Aside from the aerobics, the minute or so is easy time to reflect on what you did wrong."