"You do everything to get to that place, but as soon as you're there, you're not there anymore. So you have these pictures to remember the sensation of something that is absolutely elusive."Julian Schnabel in The Surfer's Journal (Vol 20 No.1)
April 30, 2011
That Place
April 29, 2011
April 27, 2011
April 25, 2011
April 22, 2011
April 20, 2011
April 18, 2011
April 16, 2011
Traffic Rules
"Traffic rules of the surf: courtesy requires that one surfrider does not 'cut-out' or cross in front of another which would spoil his ride."Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935
April 15, 2011
April 13, 2011
April 11, 2011
April 9, 2011
Surfing Sizes
"Purposely downplaying wave height became a common surf-world practice in the late 1960s. Before that, surfers generally tried to give an honest appraisal, measuring from crest to trough at the wave's peak height."Matt Warshaw in The History of Surfing (2010)
April 8, 2011
April 6, 2011
April 4, 2011
April 2, 2011
It's Like Shoes
"if you've got the board that is perfect for the conditions you just have a ball, you don't have bad surfs. It's like shoes. You have running shoes, mountain climbing shoes, tennis shoes and they all have a different application... it's like surfboards for us"
Bert Berger in Surfing World no. 294 (2009)
April 1, 2011
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