Very Enjoyable Surfing

I know it doesn't look that much, but I was standing alone on a foreign shore, and the sun hadn't risen yet – I quickly took this photo and then gorged myself on these very enjoyable waves for 3 hours. I surfed alone for at least half the time before a few other mellow guys showed up. Most waves were around shoulder high and began with a fast hollow section in front of the rocks and then wrapped more into the point where there was room for a bunch of turns before paddling back for more. They don't happen like that every day, one for the memory bank for sure.

Seek & Find

Winter Beachie

Cold but quiet, who needs summer?

Empty

Mid North Coast. Years ago. We didn't even surf it, another beach nearby was even better.

South Coast Early

Years ago I camped on my own behind the dunes of this South Coast beach around Easter time. After taking this early morning photo I spent 10 hrs in the water, stopping only for a tinned spaghetti sandwich. My arms felt like spaghetti that night but it was a satisfying sleep.

Yesteryear

September 10 last year. Took a hurried lineup shot before heading out for a really fun midday session. Affectionately known as the Avoca Super Bank, now a distant memory.