Very Enjoyable Surfing

I know it doesn't look that much, but I was standing alone on a foreign shore, and the sun hadn't risen yet – I quickly took this photo and then gorged myself on these very enjoyable waves for 3 hours. I surfed alone for at least half the time before a few other mellow guys showed up. Most waves were around shoulder high and began with a fast hollow section in front of the rocks and then wrapped more into the point where there was room for a bunch of turns before paddling back for more. They don't happen like that every day, one for the memory bank for sure.

Solo Peaks

Earlier this year we had a few days in a sleepy little coastal town with a fun point break of some renown, except there was a gaping big hole where all the sand usually gathers and the point itself really was fast asleep. However, early each morning I ventured only a few hundred metres to the north and gorged myself on some small but very shapely and very empty peaks. Stoked.

Lone Ranger

This guy was all alone on this solid winter morning. He picked off this much smaller inside wave before a set exploded further out.