September 19, 2012
September 17, 2012
September 14, 2012
September 12, 2012
September 10, 2012
September 7, 2012
Child's Play
Piaget described playing as the serious business of childhood. It's something I love about surfing - people well beyond their childhood years "playing" in the surf, doing something for the pure enjoyment of it. Plenty of adults make no time for something this frivolous in their lives. Although many other people enjoy different playful pursuits, for me none I've experienced are near as engrossing as surfing. The plan is to keep playing in the ocean as long as I have breath. What a privilege it is to surf.
September 5, 2012
September 3, 2012
August 31, 2012
August 29, 2012
August 27, 2012
August 24, 2012
Returning
The cutback is a classic surfing foundation. It's probably second only to the bottom hand turn, forever keeping us close to the source.
August 22, 2012
August 20, 2012
Drawn Lines
Some people draw on walls, others draw lines on waves. As well as surfing her traditionally inspired longboard lines, my wife Katherine draws all kinds of lines on digital screens, paper, canvas, card, wood, surfboards and more. She keeps some of these drawings in a cyber place called Drawn Lines.
August 17, 2012
August 15, 2012
August 13, 2012
Green & Gold
Nothing olympic related, just some green and gold beach scenes from a few weeks back. It was a great morning to be off work.
August 10, 2012
The Little Things
The stoke is often in the details for me, the incidental things I sometimes overlook are an irreplaceable part of going surfing.
August 8, 2012
August 6, 2012
August 3, 2012
August 1, 2012
July 30, 2012
July 27, 2012
Silvery Greenery
I often get a sensory overload looking around out in the surf, it's a big big part of the stoke for me.
July 25, 2012
July 24, 2012
Katherine & Liquid Salt
Katherine's been featured on Liquid Salt this week. Have a read and a peek at some of her designs here. Old Salty's one she made a little while back for Azza from Sealegged Surfboards.
July 23, 2012
The Golden Hour
When all the waves seem to come right to you and everything falls into place with no wobbly take-offs or bogged rails in sight. Those sessions don't happen too often for me, super stoked when they do though!
July 20, 2012
July 18, 2012
July 16, 2012
July 14, 2012
July 13, 2012
July 11, 2012
July 9, 2012
Soupy
Sure it was a wind blown, soupy and messy, dog's breakfast kind of line up – but it was warm, sunny and uncrowded.
July 8, 2012
July 7, 2012
July 6, 2012
July 4, 2012
The Trim Squat
I'm fond of the front on, in trim squat while longboarding myself. It doesn't work so well when I'm riding a shortboard though...
July 2, 2012
July 1, 2012
June 30, 2012
June 29, 2012
The Stubmaster
Sealegged's Azza Frost eating up some quiet winter walls on his stubby/boiled lolly model last year.
June 27, 2012
Ripple Riding
I'm sure I'm not the only one missing summer's warm water, but all in all the last summer was even lousier than usual for surf. Pretty much always a ripple for the longboarders though.
June 25, 2012
June 24, 2012
June 23, 2012
June 22, 2012
June 20, 2012
Salty Fresh
I'm sure I've said it before on here, and I'm sure I'll say it again - it's a great way to start the day.
June 18, 2012
June 17, 2012
June 16, 2012
June 15, 2012
June 13, 2012
The Surfer's Garden
Now I don't want to over generalise or cast aspersions on the work ethic of all surfers... but I'm guessing that compared with the general population surfer's gardens and odd jobs like painting may be lingering on to-do lists for a little longer than other people's, if not languishing there for some time!
June 11, 2012
June 10, 2012
June 8, 2012
Valla
You might remember my favourite board ever post from late last year, the board works as well as it does for good reason. Here's some insight into the passion and dedication the Joskes have for both their surfboards and surfing. Really well put together short from Mark Tipple.
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