Queens at Waikiki

"Do Waikiki" said Surfer Magazine's 67 Things To Do Before You Die (Aug 2006). Here's my wife Katherine  sliding there a few years ago. I'm pretty sure this was at Queens. I know it was way cool. Warm sunset sessions with live Hawaiian music on the beach are etched deep in our minds. If you get the chance, go for sure.

Slide Hawaii

Included in Surfer Magazine's 67 Things To Do Before You Die (Aug 2006) was "Do Waikiki". My wife had to almost drag me there a few years ago. Crazy I know! I can't really explain why, I just didn't feel like going away at the time... But I'm so glad I went. Both Hawaii and Waikiki were amazing. Even though we only surfed on the south shore of Oahu in their Summer (so no Sunset charging) it was super fun. It doesn't look like much but we had a blast surfing tiny Waikiki. I won't rave on, but I think surfing Waikiki definitely deserves its place on this list. 

Fun Plus

"For the man, surfing is freedom and youth rediscovered, and for the boy, a means of expression vital to his being. For both, it's fun."

Fred Wardy in Surfer Magazine Vol 46 No. 8 (Aug 2005)

It's Like Shoes

"if you've got the board that is perfect for the conditions you just have a ball, you don't have bad surfs. It's like shoes. You have running shoes, mountain climbing shoes, tennis shoes and they all have a different application... it's like surfboards for us" 

Bert Berger in Surfing World no. 294 (2009)

Most Difficult

"even with all this evolution, surfing remains one of the most difficult sports in the world to master"

Mickey Muñoz in Surfer Magazine 2006 (Vol 47 No.8)

Brief Seconds

"Brief seconds yet a culmination of endless hours on a board. These fleeting moments of exhilaration and release are days, months, years of time and experience."

Fred Wardy in Surfer Magazine (Aug 2005)

Go Leashless

"Go Leashless. There's something liberating about being unattached. It raises the stakes during even the most modest session, especially if it's your buddy's board. Plus the swim in is good for you."

No. 16 of Surfer magazine's 67 Things You Must Do Before You Die (August 2006).

An Uncrowded Beach

"Surfing is the endless search for an uncrowded beach, the perfect wave."

So said Fred Wardy in 1965 (Surfer Magazine August 2005). I'm pretty sure this is Wayne who re-tiled our bathroom recently. A speed run to himself on a beach not renowned for solitude. 

Better

Better late than never. Californian Fred Wardy described surfing as "freedom and youth rediscovered" (Surfer Magazine Vol 46 No. 8 2005). Starting out (and maybe finding his inner child) on the shorey at Terrigal.