Grom Time

The best waves of any surfer's life.

Starting Out

Early Steps

This little bank was perfect for newcomers. And when it was a little bigger it was perfect for a longboard : )

Hooked

"It's incredible that after almost 50 years of surfing, I can still remember those first few waves like they were yesterday. What's even more amazing is that riding them is still the only thing I want to do: keep surfing."

Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008). 

Wanna Have Fun

Serious Stoke

Serious amount of stoke here and classic dismount to finish.

Best

The best time in your surfing life, when nearly every ride is your best wave ever.

Kids in the Corner

After school before daylight savings had ended.

Hawaiian Style

As I understand it a big part of early Hawaiian style was about length of ride. It's cool seeing learners ride all the way to shore until their fins come to rest in the sand. Maximum glide time at North Avoca and Copacabana.

In the beginning...

I'm certain there is nothing more exhilarating in surfing than those first rides. It was a long time ago for me now, but I love to watch others find their feet. I reckon joyous learner photos will become a regular fixture here. Kids in the corner at Copacabana.