Gerry Remembers

"Everyone took turns catching waves and always knew whose turn it was. Sometimes friends, or even strangers, caught the same wave and rode it together... happily"

Gerry Lopez on early 60s Hawaii in his book Surf Is Where you find It (2008).

Greatest Lessons

"The reality of surf is that it is almost never consistently reliable. That is one of its greatest lessons: To lessen disappointment, one must first lessen expectation."

Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008).

The Present

"Surfing happens best when it's in the present; the past is behind and the future is not yet. The only thing of interest is what's here and now."

Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008).

Hooked

"It's incredible that after almost 50 years of surfing, I can still remember those first few waves like they were yesterday. What's even more amazing is that riding them is still the only thing I want to do: keep surfing."

Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008). 

Keep Doing It

"I've come to believe that surfing is as deep and meaningful as one wants it to make it. At the same time, surfing is as shallow and light as pure fun can be. Do it for whatever reasons a person can want, but keep doing it."

Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008).

Deeply Wonderful

"Surfing is a deeply wonderful thing - anytime, anywhere and any way."

Gerry Lopez in his book Surf Is Where You Find It (2008). If you stop by here regularly you've probably realised by now the quotes I use rarely have anything to do with the surfers pictured. They're just things that I thought might be worth repeating.