Showing posts with label grom. Show all posts
Showing posts with label grom. Show all posts
October 19, 2011
September 30, 2011
September 21, 2011
August 8, 2011
March 3, 2011
December 11, 2010
December 8, 2010
December 3, 2010
Accomplishment
"An unbelievable sense of accomplishment goes with a successful ride."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935
November 12, 2010
Hooked
"It's incredible that after almost 50 years of surfing, I can still remember those first few waves like they were yesterday. What's even more amazing is that riding them is still the only thing I want to do: keep surfing."
Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008).
September 14, 2010
August 12, 2010
July 26, 2010
Long or Light
I had a few days up north recently chasing some point surf. We missed the brunt of the swell but enjoyed the dregs. You either had to ride something longer or weigh in around 40kg.
July 15, 2010
July 10, 2010
May 16, 2010
February 13, 2010
Gold
"the pure dance of it, the sensual pay-off, the feel of the water, the shapes of waves and the colours of the sky and reef and the water itself; all these things are like money in the bank mentally for me"
Tim Winton in High Surf by Tim Baker
That really resonated with me when I first read it. Local grom banking some early morning gold.
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