I have a few sessions like this etched into my surfing memory, me and a mate trading waves while most of the world sleeps on, or walks their dog, or worst still goes to work! Soak up those moments when they come along I reckon.
Showing posts with label uncrowded. Show all posts
Showing posts with label uncrowded. Show all posts
October 12, 2011
July 15, 2011
July 1, 2011
June 20, 2011
Kyal & Jason
Two shots of my good mate Kyal Demrich as taken by another good mate Jason Smith. Killer shots Jas! This was a local beachie a few Saturdays ago. Apparently Kyal was the only guy out... Having only just returned from a bit of winter's respite in Bali & G-Land, Kyal must of been stoked to find a hollow right so close to home, not to mention uncrowded.
May 6, 2011
January 28, 2011
August 25, 2010
Sprung
I was lucky enough to score a really fun and quiet midday session a week or two back. It was only small, but nice and clean with a steady westerly. The wind wasn't so cool and the flowers were out. Winter's on the back foot.
August 9, 2010
Places on a Wave
"I'm struggling to find new places I can go on a wave. On tour you're trying to find places on the wave you've visited before. You're not looking for new territory."
Dane Reynolds in Surfing World 304 (2010). Yeah that's why I don't bother with the tour...
August 3, 2010
May 10, 2010
An Uncrowded Beach
"Surfing is the endless search for an uncrowded beach, the perfect wave."
So said Fred Wardy in 1965 (Surfer Magazine August 2005). I'm pretty sure this is Wayne who re-tiled our bathroom recently. A speed run to himself on a beach not renowned for solitude.
May 2, 2010
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