November 18, 2011
November 16, 2011
November 14, 2011
November 12, 2011
November 11, 2011
November 9, 2011
Mr Enthusiasm
Going on the amount of times I see Tony out for a morning session, it must be pretty rare for him to pass up a surf. As a regular longboarder I end up splashing about in some pretty marginal conditions; the kind of conditions most won't bother with on a short board, but Tony often paddles out on a trusty thruster to snag a few before work. His surf stoke and energy nearly out does the groms. Cool to see. Sometimes he even puts in a decent ride to and from the surf as well.
November 7, 2011
November 5, 2011
November 4, 2011
Eyes Fixed
Gaze already fixed on where he wants to be next. Smooth surfers always seem to be well and truly ready - in the right place at the right time. It doesn't happen by accident of course. An integral aspect of the broad skill set accomplished surfers have built up is the ability to 'read' the wave as it bends, tilts, jacks, wobbles, slows down or speeds up, even while they are split seconds away from being there.
November 2, 2011
October 31, 2011
October 29, 2011
Once Upon A Time
Found this old school montage yesterday, love looking at the various styles, boards and techniques over the years.
October 28, 2011
Stormin III
Overhead beachies don't happen everyday around here, meaning rain and grey skies aren't much of a deterrent. So we make hay while the sun doesn't shine...
October 26, 2011
October 24, 2011
Stormin I
Mid winter. It was cold, grey, dark, raining and crowded. As always there were moments though.
October 22, 2011
October 21, 2011
October 19, 2011
October 17, 2011
October 15, 2011
October 14, 2011
October 12, 2011
Early Two
I have a few sessions like this etched into my surfing memory, me and a mate trading waves while most of the world sleeps on, or walks their dog, or worst still goes to work! Soak up those moments when they come along I reckon.
October 10, 2011
October 8, 2011
October 7, 2011
Surf Checking
It's part of the ritual. No Hawaiian sized waves this day, but the sun's out and the water's moving.
October 5, 2011
Scott Solar
Scott Solar: SUP shredder, Australian kite surfing champion, occasional "regular" surfer(!), fellow school teacher and all around good guy.
October 3, 2011
Sitter
An attempted sitting tube ride by myself on a trip up the coast with legit photographer mate, Jason Smith (whereas I'm a self confessed digital hack!).
October 1, 2011
September 30, 2011
September 28, 2011
Great Expectations
One of those fleeting moments that makes surfing so good - the anticipation of the ride ahead as you feel the rails and plan your first move.
September 26, 2011
Azza & Jason
Two good men. Azza's the man behind Sealegged surfboards, captured here by Jason Smith - also above in his own self portrait. I'll be featuring some of Jason's photos over the next few Mondays. He's the real deal!
September 25, 2011
Boday Bashing
Body surfing sounds far more graceful but often the reality is that our local "body bashing" nickname is far more apt. I know I had a lot of fun getting some close out views last summer with some fins I picked up for $15. Stoked.
September 23, 2011
September 21, 2011
September 19, 2011
Summer's Coming
With all this warm weather of late it's clear that Summer's just around the corner. Short interval, locally generated and wind affected swells abound, but in a way I know I'm still looking forward to it! Must be something to do with the long days, barbeques, warm water and all the rest that is part and parcel of our Summer.
September 17, 2011
September 16, 2011
September 14, 2011
Small Corner Runners
Small fun waves with a small mellow crowd, I didn't hear any complaints out there.
September 12, 2011
September 10, 2011
Classic Inspiration
One of my favourite sections from one of my earliest favourite surf movies, Searching for Tom Curren. This was the first time I became aware of the fish design.
September 9, 2011
September 7, 2011
September 5, 2011
September 3, 2011
Epic Winter
Here's a short video with a few of the heavier waves that were ridden around these parts this winter. I haven't actually taken many photos recently, been busy being a new dad : ) or getting out amongst it myself. It was such a good winter though. Lots of swell, with offshore sunny days and good crowd numbers and water temperatures.
September 2, 2011
Sealegged Stubby
Depends where you wanna go on a wave of course, but I reckon Azza's onto a super fun, super functional shape with his stubby. Check them out on his new Sealegged site.
August 31, 2011
Either Side
Two beaches on either side of one headland on the same day last Summer. The water was cold after a sustained northerly. Farewell today an epic Winter, let's hope Spring is uncharacteristically good!
August 29, 2011
August 26, 2011
Surf Rules
Here we see the old first up and riding taking precedence over the surfer who's deepest. The funny thing is everyone's right in their own eyes. Etiquette's generally not too bad this time of year. There are moments in the cooler months for sure, but dramas seem more regular in summer when the lineups are busier, there's less waves and less familiarity with the subtleties of turn taking and right of way. No one ever explained those basics to me, it took years of stink eyes and surf mag references to get the basics down.
August 24, 2011
Corner Carve
Ahhh.. a session to remember. Fun rights running along a well shaped hunk of sand and regular rain squalls keeping it relatively quiet for a Saturday.
August 22, 2011
Grouse
I was going to leave it just titled grouse, but for our overseas friends and any younger local ones; 'grouse' is classic Aussie slang for great. She's a grouse sheila. The party was grouse as. Grouse feed they put on. Or as depicted above, a grouse moment in the surf.
August 20, 2011
August 19, 2011
August 17, 2011
August 15, 2011
August 13, 2011
August 12, 2011
August 10, 2011
August 8, 2011
August 6, 2011
August 5, 2011
August 3, 2011
August 1, 2011
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