Body surfing sounds far more graceful but often the reality is that our local "body bashing" nickname is far more apt. I know I had a lot of fun getting some close out views last summer with some fins I picked up for $15. Stoked.
September 25, 2011
Boday Bashing
Body surfing sounds far more graceful but often the reality is that our local "body bashing" nickname is far more apt. I know I had a lot of fun getting some close out views last summer with some fins I picked up for $15. Stoked.
September 23, 2011
September 21, 2011
September 19, 2011
Summer's Coming
With all this warm weather of late it's clear that Summer's just around the corner. Short interval, locally generated and wind affected swells abound, but in a way I know I'm still looking forward to it! Must be something to do with the long days, barbeques, warm water and all the rest that is part and parcel of our Summer.
September 17, 2011
September 16, 2011
September 14, 2011
Small Corner Runners
Small fun waves with a small mellow crowd, I didn't hear any complaints out there.
September 12, 2011
September 10, 2011
Classic Inspiration
One of my favourite sections from one of my earliest favourite surf movies, Searching for Tom Curren. This was the first time I became aware of the fish design.
September 9, 2011
September 7, 2011
September 5, 2011
September 3, 2011
Epic Winter
Here's a short video with a few of the heavier waves that were ridden around these parts this winter. I haven't actually taken many photos recently, been busy being a new dad : ) or getting out amongst it myself. It was such a good winter though. Lots of swell, with offshore sunny days and good crowd numbers and water temperatures.
September 2, 2011
Sealegged Stubby
Depends where you wanna go on a wave of course, but I reckon Azza's onto a super fun, super functional shape with his stubby. Check them out on his new Sealegged site.
August 31, 2011
Either Side
Two beaches on either side of one headland on the same day last Summer. The water was cold after a sustained northerly. Farewell today an epic Winter, let's hope Spring is uncharacteristically good!
August 29, 2011
August 26, 2011
Surf Rules
Here we see the old first up and riding taking precedence over the surfer who's deepest. The funny thing is everyone's right in their own eyes. Etiquette's generally not too bad this time of year. There are moments in the cooler months for sure, but dramas seem more regular in summer when the lineups are busier, there's less waves and less familiarity with the subtleties of turn taking and right of way. No one ever explained those basics to me, it took years of stink eyes and surf mag references to get the basics down.
August 24, 2011
Corner Carve
Ahhh.. a session to remember. Fun rights running along a well shaped hunk of sand and regular rain squalls keeping it relatively quiet for a Saturday.
August 22, 2011
Grouse
I was going to leave it just titled grouse, but for our overseas friends and any younger local ones; 'grouse' is classic Aussie slang for great. She's a grouse sheila. The party was grouse as. Grouse feed they put on. Or as depicted above, a grouse moment in the surf.
August 20, 2011
August 19, 2011
August 17, 2011
August 15, 2011
August 13, 2011
August 12, 2011
August 10, 2011
August 8, 2011
August 6, 2011
August 5, 2011
August 3, 2011
August 1, 2011
July 30, 2011
July 29, 2011
July 27, 2011
July 25, 2011
July 23, 2011
July 22, 2011
July 20, 2011
July 18, 2011
July 16, 2011
July 15, 2011
July 13, 2011
July 11, 2011
July 9, 2011
Careless & Bronzed
"standing upright on his board, carelessly poised, a young god bronzed with sunburn"
So wrote author Jack London on observing a surfer while visiting Hawaii in 1907.
July 8, 2011
July 6, 2011
July 4, 2011
July 1, 2011
June 29, 2011
June 27, 2011
June 24, 2011
June 22, 2011
June 20, 2011
Kyal & Jason
Two shots of my good mate Kyal Demrich as taken by another good mate Jason Smith. Killer shots Jas! This was a local beachie a few Saturdays ago. Apparently Kyal was the only guy out... Having only just returned from a bit of winter's respite in Bali & G-Land, Kyal must of been stoked to find a hollow right so close to home, not to mention uncrowded.
June 17, 2011
June 15, 2011
June 14, 2011
Send Your Photos
A week or so ago someone I know well, who shall remain nameless, passed comment on my photos. To paraphrase they reminded me that I've been posting photos here for over a year now, but went on to tell me that they've seen little improvement in my photos and if anything the quality of my posts may be getting worse... it's just that you don't take enough time, they said.
Ouch. The things people close to you can say! So after about 5 seconds contemplation I conceded that yes, it was a valid point. I guess I know that I'm a surfer first and a photographer second (actually there's a number of other things in my life that would go in that equation, but as a figure of speech I'm a surfer before I'm a photographer).
And when I do have time to get out and amongst it, my passion is for riding waves rather than watching them being ridden. But I do like watching and capturing them being ridden sometimes, when I'm in the mood, or I've got an injury or a cold...
However I will try and lift my game, spend a bit more time on the beach catching the moments, and sorting out the digital pile of photos in the folder. I'm still a big fan of celebrating the everyday surfers getting out there experiencing some pure surf stoke.
I'm actually hoping you can help. If you have some photos of regular 'surfer joes' then feel free to send them my way and I'll post them up here. They can be of you or your mates or family, longboarders, shortboarders, bodysurfing - whatever. You retain the copyright etc and I can add a link to your own blog/page/site, just email them to surferjoephotos@gmail.com
Looking forward to seeing your photos.
June 13, 2011
June 10, 2011
June 8, 2011
To The Bottom
Bottom turns both look and feel great I reckon. And their execution can make or break a good ride too.
June 6, 2011
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