Head Dippin'

Not To Mind

"I have noticed that those who are very enthusiastic seem not to mind a wait, while others roundly cuss things in general and quickly give up and paddle to shore."

Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935.

Say Cheese

Roundhouse

Long Black

Moments

Water's Edge

Whoops

The Present

"Surfing happens best when it's in the present; the past is behind and the future is not yet. The only thing of interest is what's here and now."

Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008).

School's Out

Shiny Bright

Point Surf

Moments

Backwash Casualty

She strikes again...

Long & Short

Waiting

Late Winter

Grey Fun

Whack

Muse

The beach can be a great place to be absorbed in reflection, but often being out in the surf is so engrossing that there's no time for any thought other than the next move as we negotiate the ever moving ocean as it shifts under, around and sometimes right on top of us...

SUP

Accomplishment

"An unbelievable sense of accomplishment goes with a successful ride."

Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935

Surfer Joes

Nor East Slide

 

Welcome to Summer.

Cruising

Water Colours

Early Spring

Black Drop

Blue & Yellow

Free

Another much older shot. Years ago on a summer sojourn up and down the coast chasing waves, I was flying solo in my first car with a couple of boards while on uni holidays. Free as a bird without a care in the world.

Morning Froth

Hand Dragging

Hugh Daugaard enjoying one of surfing's more subtle pleasures.

The Hang Of It

Out & About

Powerful Influence

"The actual riding of big surf for a few hours, I can say, has a powerful influence towards making one forget his real and imaginary troubles."

Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935 (originally titled Hawaiian Surfboard). It's a great read. Tom is regularly named as the second most influential surfer of the 20th century, only behind the Duke himself. His most widely known contribution to surfing was pioneering the use of fins on surfboards.

Longer

Summer Turn

Water's Edge

Drop Knee

Clean Swell

An old favourite from years ago. A great couple of days surfing and camping in the Great Lakes region.

Spring Turn

With Leaves

Hooked

"It's incredible that after almost 50 years of surfing, I can still remember those first few waves like they were yesterday. What's even more amazing is that riding them is still the only thing I want to do: keep surfing."

Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008). 

Long Blue

Quad

Last Summer

We're in our final month of Spring and on average it has actually been pretty good for what is often the worst surf season. Our other not so good surf season of Summer is close now. Here's one of the better mornings from January this year.

Bricks & Barrels

Surfer Joes

In case you're wondering what this blog's about... Surfer Joes are everyday average surfers who happen to be out there while I'm taking photos. Anyone can turn up here, you don't have to be sponsored, cool, ride a certain board or know me. I just shoot whoever's out there. As you can see often in average conditions too. It's good to be reminded that we can enjoy it even when it's not 'surf-mag' perfect.