July 31, 2010
July 30, 2010
July 29, 2010
July 28, 2010
July 27, 2010
Be Happy
"If we can't be happy and friendly in the water, where can we? ... Everyone has their best surfs when they're happy."
Robbie Page in The Surfer's Journal (vol 18 no.4)
July 26, 2010
Long or Light
I had a few days up north recently chasing some point surf. We missed the brunt of the swell but enjoyed the dregs. You either had to ride something longer or weigh in around 40kg.
July 25, 2010
July 24, 2010
Holidays
"Be a little more tolerant of the beginners, because we were all beginners at one time too."
Gerry Lopez in The Surfer's Journal (Vol 18 No.4) It was great seeing a bunch of groms doing their thing in the recent school holidays.
July 23, 2010
Go Leashless
"Go Leashless. There's something liberating about being unattached. It raises the stakes during even the most modest session, especially if it's your buddy's board. Plus the swim in is good for you."
No. 16 of Surfer magazine's 67 Things You Must Do Before You Die (August 2006).
July 22, 2010
July 21, 2010
July 20, 2010
July 19, 2010
July 18, 2010
July 17, 2010
July 16, 2010
July 15, 2010
July 14, 2010
July 13, 2010
July 12, 2010
July 11, 2010
Smiler
Ben enjoying an afternoon slide at his home beach. Whenever I see him out he's always smiling. And if as its been said many times before; the best surfer is the one having the most fun, then Ben is among the most advanced in our sport/pastime/art/lifestyle/addiction... call it what you will! Whatever it is, it's all about the fun : )
July 10, 2010
July 9, 2010
Remember Summer?
Oh to be in board shorts with the hot sun beating down. Although to be fair the surf itself was pretty lousy last summer. And cool water aside we've been enjoying consistent swell and plenty of clean offshores lately. Some of you are lucky enough (Trev!) to be heading to Indo for some winter respite. Have a tube or three for me mate.
July 8, 2010
Morning Wall
"The equipment the best guys are using, in many sports, is often not suitable nor applicable to the average joe."
So said the King. Kelly Slater in Surfing World 294 (2009)
July 7, 2010
Danger
I know plenty of you would run straight past the danger sign without thought, considering these idyllic conditions. But I can remember earlier in my own learning continuum, somehow making it out the back on a day like this and spending an hour or more trying to pluck up the courage to catch just one wave back to the safety of the shore! I guess it's relative to where you're at with your surfing. On Sunday's post I joked about a shorey being a rat shack and now I've just come across this surfing mice video. Soon they'll be selling rodent surf gear too...
July 6, 2010
One for One
"If alternatives exist in ways to turn the fun on then there's more health all around. Whatever gives you the fun. Go for it."
Derek Hynd in Surfing World 296 (2009)
July 5, 2010
Different Ways
Different ways to start the day. By the way, I went for an early surf last Wednesday and there was frost on the sand! I have never experienced that before. The water was fine, it was just the run across the beach that was painful. I don't think I'm ready for a surf trip to Antarctica just yet.
July 4, 2010
July 3, 2010
July 2, 2010
Spray It
"I think when surfing gets in your blood, it's like having saltwater in the veins. You just feel a mad hankering to get out there."
Stuart Bedford-Brown in Surfing World 293 (2009)
July 1, 2010
June 30, 2010
Planet Patterns
Surfing... "tunes us into the cyclical patterns of the planet: seasons and weather systems, swells and tides - what we might consider the Earth's natural pulse. And when we are in touch with the pulse of the planet, perhaps we are less likely to trash the place."
Tim Baker in High Surf (2007)
June 29, 2010
June 28, 2010
Flat?
This was probably 6 months ago now. It looks and for all intents and purposes is dead flat. But I was stoked to find really rideable knee to thigh high runners at the very next beach. No photo evidence here, I was too busy surfing. Pays to look around.
June 27, 2010
June 26, 2010
Azza & Shelly
Sharing some late arvo slides at one of their favourite north ends. Check out Azza's Sea Legged blog.
June 25, 2010
In Byron
Around 18 months ago we were passing through Byron and had a fun surf out at The Pass. Some local surfers up there run a daily photo site featuring people surfing and hanging out in Byron Bay. I was pleasantly surprised to find this shot of myself on their page. Check it out - In Byron Bay Today
June 24, 2010
Cooler
The water's finally cooled off now. These shots are from a fun day around two months ago. There's not many who haven't donned the steamer now.
June 23, 2010
Lighter
Apparently we've just passed the shortest day of the year for daylight around here. I know I'm looking forward to having more surfable hours in the day. Pretty happy I don't live at the South Pole too.
June 22, 2010
Supreme Pleasure
"I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
Captain James Cook in Tahiti 1777
June 21, 2010
June 20, 2010
June 19, 2010
June 18, 2010
June 17, 2010
June 16, 2010
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