May 30, 2011
May 28, 2011
Sport of Kings
"It's the 'Sports of Kings' and even if the phrase was created by some early version of the Waikiki tourist board, most surfers nonetheless wear the designation with quiet pride."Matt Warshaw in The History of Surfing (2010).
May 27, 2011
May 25, 2011
May 23, 2011
May 21, 2011
Fluid & Effortless
"The experiences I've had on fishes seem to be the most effortless and most fluid out of all the surf crafts I've ridden. It seems to have it's own source of speed and glide - kind of like a natural hull, like it has it's own natural movement that just keeps it rolling forward, it's own momentum."Dave Rastovich in The Surfer's Path Issue 61 (2007)
May 20, 2011
May 18, 2011
May 16, 2011
May 14, 2011
On Crowds
"It seems like the ones who have just accepted the crowd factor are the most happy and content."Patrick Trefz in Surfing World 304 (2010)
May 13, 2011
Sacrifices
I think most of us are okay with wearing wetsuits when we start to enjoy Winter waves and diminished crowds. Sweet one from last year.
May 11, 2011
May 9, 2011
Michelle
Introducing Michelle, Sealegged's very first team rider. All her boards are on the house. Seen here right in the sweet spot on her sweet as latest ride. Pays to be married to a shaper.
May 7, 2011
Fun Plus
"For the man, surfing is freedom and youth rediscovered, and for the boy, a means of expression vital to his being. For both, it's fun."Fred Wardy in Surfer Magazine Vol 46 No. 8 (Aug 2005)
May 6, 2011
May 4, 2011
May 2, 2011
April 30, 2011
That Place
"You do everything to get to that place, but as soon as you're there, you're not there anymore. So you have these pictures to remember the sensation of something that is absolutely elusive."Julian Schnabel in The Surfer's Journal (Vol 20 No.1)
April 29, 2011
April 27, 2011
April 25, 2011
April 22, 2011
April 20, 2011
April 18, 2011
April 16, 2011
Traffic Rules
"Traffic rules of the surf: courtesy requires that one surfrider does not 'cut-out' or cross in front of another which would spoil his ride."Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935
April 15, 2011
April 13, 2011
April 11, 2011
April 9, 2011
Surfing Sizes
"Purposely downplaying wave height became a common surf-world practice in the late 1960s. Before that, surfers generally tried to give an honest appraisal, measuring from crest to trough at the wave's peak height."Matt Warshaw in The History of Surfing (2010)
April 8, 2011
April 6, 2011
April 4, 2011
April 2, 2011
It's Like Shoes
"if you've got the board that is perfect for the conditions you just have a ball, you don't have bad surfs. It's like shoes. You have running shoes, mountain climbing shoes, tennis shoes and they all have a different application... it's like surfboards for us"
Bert Berger in Surfing World no. 294 (2009)
April 1, 2011
March 30, 2011
March 28, 2011
March 26, 2011
Gerry Remembers
"Everyone took turns catching waves and always knew whose turn it was. Sometimes friends, or even strangers, caught the same wave and rode it together... happily"
Gerry Lopez on early 60s Hawaii in his book Surf Is Where you find It (2008).
March 25, 2011
March 23, 2011
March 22, 2011
March 21, 2011
Busy
A break with a fairly tight take off area, after long summer flat spell, in the holiday period, regulars and weekend warriors alike hungry for waves... busy.
Speaking of busy, I'm finding it a bit of a stretch to keep the posts coming thick and fast. So they might come a bit less often for a while, but they'll keep coming.
March 19, 2011
Sealegged Surfboards
Sealegged Surfboards from Thomas Stockwell on Vimeo.
More and more surfers seem to be discovering the massive amounts of stoke that varied surfcraft can give. There's no denying the shreddability of a super light 6'0 thruster, but there's a whole bunch of cool sensations to be had on a wave that these boards can't provide. And as anyone with a well stocked quiver knows, there's always boards that go better in specific conditions. Azz from Sealegged Surfboards rides what he shapes and has a surf stoked grin to prove it. He's a local Central Coast surfer-shaper making old school longboards, fishes, quads, mid lengths and more. Here's a little taste of what he does and some contact details. Catch up with him and have a yarn about riding your own completely hand made, customized surfboard.
March 18, 2011
March 17, 2011
March 16, 2011
March 15, 2011
March 14, 2011
March 11, 2011
March 10, 2011
March 9, 2011
March 8, 2011
March 7, 2011
Autumn A-Frame
One trip I will never forget. Solo camping and surfing in the dunes of this south coast beachie for a week or so. Over ten years ago now, I've never ridden backhand barrels as good since. Will have to repeat that trip before too long. Hoping to see a few of these around home in the months ahead.
March 4, 2011
March 3, 2011
March 2, 2011
Blokes Learning
Learning to surf as anyone who has ever tried knows, is far easier said than done. Maybe especially if you don't start out as a nimble 8 year old. Still plenty of fun of course, especially when torpedoing your mates best ride yet!
March 1, 2011
Homage
February 28, 2011
Summer Peak
It wasn't the absolute best session of Summer by any means, but probably the best where I had my camera on hand. Short and long, everyone was having a pile o' fun.
February 25, 2011
February 24, 2011
February 23, 2011
Steamer
I'm enjoying not wearing one, the water's magic at the moment. Although it will be nice to find some less populated lineups..
February 22, 2011
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