March 30, 2011
March 28, 2011
March 26, 2011
Gerry Remembers
"Everyone took turns catching waves and always knew whose turn it was. Sometimes friends, or even strangers, caught the same wave and rode it together... happily"
Gerry Lopez on early 60s Hawaii in his book Surf Is Where you find It (2008).
March 25, 2011
March 23, 2011
March 22, 2011
March 21, 2011
Busy
A break with a fairly tight take off area, after long summer flat spell, in the holiday period, regulars and weekend warriors alike hungry for waves... busy.
Speaking of busy, I'm finding it a bit of a stretch to keep the posts coming thick and fast. So they might come a bit less often for a while, but they'll keep coming.
March 19, 2011
Sealegged Surfboards
Sealegged Surfboards from Thomas Stockwell on Vimeo.
More and more surfers seem to be discovering the massive amounts of stoke that varied surfcraft can give. There's no denying the shreddability of a super light 6'0 thruster, but there's a whole bunch of cool sensations to be had on a wave that these boards can't provide. And as anyone with a well stocked quiver knows, there's always boards that go better in specific conditions. Azz from Sealegged Surfboards rides what he shapes and has a surf stoked grin to prove it. He's a local Central Coast surfer-shaper making old school longboards, fishes, quads, mid lengths and more. Here's a little taste of what he does and some contact details. Catch up with him and have a yarn about riding your own completely hand made, customized surfboard.
March 18, 2011
March 17, 2011
March 16, 2011
March 15, 2011
March 14, 2011
March 11, 2011
March 10, 2011
March 9, 2011
March 8, 2011
March 7, 2011
Autumn A-Frame
One trip I will never forget. Solo camping and surfing in the dunes of this south coast beachie for a week or so. Over ten years ago now, I've never ridden backhand barrels as good since. Will have to repeat that trip before too long. Hoping to see a few of these around home in the months ahead.
March 4, 2011
March 3, 2011
March 2, 2011
Blokes Learning
Learning to surf as anyone who has ever tried knows, is far easier said than done. Maybe especially if you don't start out as a nimble 8 year old. Still plenty of fun of course, especially when torpedoing your mates best ride yet!
March 1, 2011
Homage
February 28, 2011
Summer Peak
It wasn't the absolute best session of Summer by any means, but probably the best where I had my camera on hand. Short and long, everyone was having a pile o' fun.
February 25, 2011
February 24, 2011
February 23, 2011
Steamer
I'm enjoying not wearing one, the water's magic at the moment. Although it will be nice to find some less populated lineups..
February 22, 2011
February 21, 2011
February 18, 2011
February 17, 2011
Fisher Man
Azza enjoying a moody evening session at one of his favourite lefts. Not actually riding a fish but his latest love, affectionately known as the stubby.
February 16, 2011
February 15, 2011
February 14, 2011
February 11, 2011
February 10, 2011
February 9, 2011
February 8, 2011
Same but Different
Same late January morning as yesterday's post but a different approach. No less valid I reckon, surf the sections as they come. Sometimes I'm trying to force something I really want to do, I have to remind myself not to plan too far ahead, just take it as it comes.
February 7, 2011
Lift Off
Nose rides then tubes, now days the ultimate for a big chunk of the surfing population is the 'air'. Can't say I've had much success myself, ridden over a few backwashes... might have got the fins out! I'm pretty content to keep trim. No problems for Harris though.
February 4, 2011
Early Steps
This little bank was perfect for newcomers. And when it was a little bigger it was perfect for a longboard : )
February 3, 2011
This Summer
I haven't actually taken heaps of photos this summer, been out enjoying them. This morning last week was a bit of a surprise and really fun. I saw Chris on the beach after one of these rides, he was buzzing with surf stoke and heading back for more.
February 2, 2011
February 1, 2011
January 31, 2011
Yesteryear I
Cleaning out most of the left over pics from last summer. Some fun looking days, but overall I think this summer has been better. Hopefully it gets better yet. What I'm really looking forward to is some classic Autumn conditions...
January 28, 2011
January 27, 2011
January 26, 2011
January 25, 2011
Most Difficult
"even with all this evolution, surfing remains one of the most difficult sports in the world to master"
Mickey Muñoz in Surfer Magazine 2006 (Vol 47 No.8)
January 24, 2011
January 21, 2011
January 20, 2011
January 19, 2011
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)