I'm making the assumption that sand banks are feminine forms. There's a bank around here that made for some great waves last year and right on cue, just before Autumn, she's back. This afternoon, although onshore and fairly crowded there were plenty of fun ones, and like always a few that slip through unridden.
February 25, 2010
Katherine & I have just returned from a few weeks in India, the blog's been on auto pilot with pics I took in January. I'll have some fresh photos up soon. The trip was really cool. Not a surf trip, but I think it's healthy to leave the surf for a while every now and again. I know I'm super stoked to be back in the water, and so appreciative of where I live and for the privilege of being able to surf.
I managed to bodysurf 2 pieces of wind chop at Candolim Beach pictured above in Goa, a state previously occupied by the Portuguese with really cool architecture. My favourite part of the trip was a place called Hampi, actually out in the middle of the country, nowhere near the coast. But after a while I was starting to see things that weren't really there...
February 23, 2010
February 21, 2010
February 19, 2010
February 17, 2010
February 15, 2010
Close to ten years ago now... It was the height of summer and really crowded for the morning session with a light offshore. But once the wind came up out of the NE pretty much everyone got out. The tide got lower and these really makeable fun barrels started grinding along this bank. Classic day, one for the memory bank. This is my good friend and great source of surfing inspiration Paul Joske from Valla.
February 13, 2010
"the pure dance of it, the sensual pay-off, the feel of the water, the shapes of waves and the colours of the sky and reef and the water itself; all these things are like money in the bank mentally for me"
Tim Winton in High Surf by Tim Baker
That really resonated with me when I first read it. Local grom banking some early morning gold.
February 11, 2010
February 9, 2010
February 7, 2010
February 5, 2010
February 3, 2010
February 2, 2010
Every now and again I'm going to feature a ‘surfer Joe’ I know or meet on the beach. Starting out with my good mate Azza, seen here trying out a new longboard he just shaped himself.
Surfing since: 1980.
Likes riding: Pretty much anything. At the moment especially keel fin fishes and logs.
Likes to surf: Long fast point breaks. Sandon Point and The Boneyard were favourites growing up on the South Coast.
One day: I’ll head out to Nias in Sumatra and ride some almond-eyed barrels.
Along the way: I’ve learned to be stoked riding whatever I feel like without worrying what anyone else is doing.