April 30, 2011

That Place

"You do everything to get to that place, but as soon as you're there, you're not there anymore. So you have these pictures to remember the sensation of something that is absolutely elusive."
Julian Schnabel in The Surfer's Journal (Vol 20 No.1)

April 29, 2011

April 27, 2011

April 22, 2011

April 20, 2011

Down Beach

Recent March swell, groms chasing barrels further down the beach.

April 16, 2011

Traffic Rules

"Traffic rules of the surf: courtesy requires that one surfrider does not 'cut-out' or cross in front of another which would spoil his ride."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935

April 13, 2011

Morning Spray

Ex morning regular Brett, now residing in Perth. Hope it's going well for you mate.

April 9, 2011

Surfing Sizes

"Purposely downplaying wave height became a common surf-world practice in the late 1960s. Before that, surfers generally tried to give an honest appraisal, measuring from crest to trough at the wave's peak height."
Matt Warshaw in The History of Surfing (2010)

April 8, 2011

Long Turns

Long turns feel good. Azz on a Sealegged stoke enhancer.

April 4, 2011


It's a great feeling.

April 2, 2011

It's Like Shoes

"if you've got the board that is perfect for the conditions you just have a ball, you don't have bad surfs. It's like shoes. You have running shoes, mountain climbing shoes, tennis shoes and they all have a different application... it's like surfboards for us" 
Bert Berger in Surfing World no. 294 (2009)

April 1, 2011

More Recently

Varied approaches on a recent Autumn morning.