Two beaches on either side of one headland on the same day last Summer. The water was cold after a sustained northerly. Farewell today an epic Winter, let's hope Spring is uncharacteristically good!
August 26, 2011
Here we see the old first up and riding taking precedence over the surfer who's deepest. The funny thing is everyone's right in their own eyes. Etiquette's generally not too bad this time of year. There are moments in the cooler months for sure, but dramas seem more regular in summer when the lineups are busier, there's less waves and less familiarity with the subtleties of turn taking and right of way. No one ever explained those basics to me, it took years of stink eyes and surf mag references to get the basics down.
August 24, 2011
August 22, 2011
I was going to leave it just titled grouse, but for our overseas friends and any younger local ones; 'grouse' is classic Aussie slang for great. She's a grouse sheila. The party was grouse as. Grouse feed they put on. Or as depicted above, a grouse moment in the surf.