June 30, 2010

Planet Patterns

Surfing... "tunes us into the cyclical patterns of the planet: seasons and weather systems, swells and tides - what we might consider the Earth's natural pulse. And when we are in touch with the pulse of the planet, perhaps we are less likely to trash the place."
Tim Baker in High Surf (2007) 

June 29, 2010

June 28, 2010


This was probably 6 months ago now. It looks and for all intents and purposes is dead flat. But I was stoked to find really rideable knee to thigh high runners at the very next beach. No photo evidence here, I was too busy surfing. Pays to look around.

June 27, 2010

Rocky Point

Not in Hawaii, just a fun rocky point round here. Check out this rad animated surf flick.

June 26, 2010

Azza & Shelly

Sharing some late arvo slides at one of their favourite north ends. Check out Azza's Sea Legged blog.

June 25, 2010

In Byron

Around 18 months ago we were passing through Byron and had a fun surf out at The Pass. Some local surfers up there run a daily photo site featuring people surfing and hanging out in Byron Bay. I was pleasantly surprised to find this shot of myself on their page. Check it out - In Byron Bay Today

June 24, 2010


The water's finally cooled off now. These shots are from a fun day around two months ago. There's not many who haven't donned the steamer now.

June 23, 2010


Apparently we've just passed the shortest day of the year for daylight around here. I know I'm looking forward to having more surfable hours in the day. Pretty happy I don't live at the South Pole too.

June 22, 2010

Supreme Pleasure

"I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
Captain James Cook in Tahiti 1777

June 21, 2010

Serious Stoke

Serious amount of stoke here and classic dismount to finish.

June 20, 2010

June 17, 2010


Seeing the sunrise from the lineup always makes me stoked.

June 16, 2010

June 15, 2010

Split Peak

Left and right. A bit of simple communication goes a long way.

June 14, 2010

June 13, 2010

Winter Wishing

Are you over Winter already? I reckon Summer and it's mostly marginal conditions will be back before we know it. Then we'll be hanging out for Autumn and Winter again... Here's one of the better mornings back in January.

June 12, 2010

Close Outs

I reckon I've ridden a stack of close outs so far this year. The sand's been really average. I'm wondering is it because there was very little north swell to shape it? A penny for your thoughts, so to speak...

June 11, 2010


Mid North Coast. Years ago. We didn't even surf it, another beach nearby was even better.

June 10, 2010

Ladies Day

Dear & Yonder is cool surf movie featuring heaps of great female surfers. Well worth a look even for  a bloke I reckon. Check it here.

June 9, 2010

Sunset Fun

"The faster I go out there, the slower things seem to happen"
Gerry Lopez in Surfboards by Guy Motil (2007)

June 8, 2010

Central Coast Sickness

There's no place like home. 

June 7, 2010


While I'm getting a bit arty, have you seen The Present? It grew on me, the right point in Africa was totally sick.

June 6, 2010

Wishing & Waiting

Wishing, waiting and scoring.

June 5, 2010

Booger Watch

Classic Autumn beachie from Thursday May 13. Jake Foster put together a cool vid featuring a bunch of local pros negotiating some decent tubes on the same morning. Check it out here.

June 4, 2010

Surfing Would Be

"Surfing would be nothing without grommets... it'd be a stale, dying pastime. Grommets bring life to the sport."
Nick Carroll in Kurungaba (2008 Vol.1 Issue 2)

June 3, 2010

Ancient Pastime

"In Hawaii... ancient kings and queens dedicated themselves to perfecting the art of 'he'e nalu', a poetic Polynesian term roughly translated as 'wave sliding'."
Brendan McAloon in Deep Water - Travel Stories and The Search for The Perfect Wave (2009).

June 2, 2010


"Just let me do my dance. Don't put me in a box and tell me how and what I have to do. Let the artist paint the picture, be it classic or progressive."
Bill Stewart in Surfer (August 2005)

June 1, 2010

Beach Power

"The amount of energy in the waves that reach only our shores each year is equivalent to probably twice the world's current power usage" 
Dr Tom Dennis in Surfing World 292 (2008)