July 30, 2010
July 27, 2010
July 26, 2010
July 25, 2010
July 24, 2010
"Be a little more tolerant of the beginners, because we were all beginners at one time too."
Gerry Lopez in The Surfer's Journal (Vol 18 No.4) It was great seeing a bunch of groms doing their thing in the recent school holidays.
July 23, 2010
"Go Leashless. There's something liberating about being unattached. It raises the stakes during even the most modest session, especially if it's your buddy's board. Plus the swim in is good for you."
No. 16 of Surfer magazine's 67 Things You Must Do Before You Die (August 2006).
July 20, 2010
July 14, 2010
July 12, 2010
July 11, 2010
Ben enjoying an afternoon slide at his home beach. Whenever I see him out he's always smiling. And if as its been said many times before; the best surfer is the one having the most fun, then Ben is among the most advanced in our sport/pastime/art/lifestyle/addiction... call it what you will! Whatever it is, it's all about the fun : )
July 9, 2010
Oh to be in board shorts with the hot sun beating down. Although to be fair the surf itself was pretty lousy last summer. And cool water aside we've been enjoying consistent swell and plenty of clean offshores lately. Some of you are lucky enough (Trev!) to be heading to Indo for some winter respite. Have a tube or three for me mate.
July 8, 2010
July 7, 2010
I know plenty of you would run straight past the danger sign without thought, considering these idyllic conditions. But I can remember earlier in my own learning continuum, somehow making it out the back on a day like this and spending an hour or more trying to pluck up the courage to catch just one wave back to the safety of the shore! I guess it's relative to where you're at with your surfing. On Sunday's post I joked about a shorey being a rat shack and now I've just come across this surfing mice video. Soon they'll be selling rodent surf gear too...
July 6, 2010
July 5, 2010
Different ways to start the day. By the way, I went for an early surf last Wednesday and there was frost on the sand! I have never experienced that before. The water was fine, it was just the run across the beach that was painful. I don't think I'm ready for a surf trip to Antarctica just yet.