Far away from the grey and wet conditions of late.
May 30, 2010
May 29, 2010
May 28, 2010
May 27, 2010
May 23, 2010
May 21, 2010
May 19, 2010
May 18, 2010
May 17, 2010
Trained my camera further down beach one morning to capture this text book roundhouse. Closer inspection revealed it to be the handiwork of my near neighbour Dan Santangelo. Dan's a local custom board builder, his shapes are under the feet of plenty surfers on the coast. Check out his sleds here.
May 15, 2010
"Go get a big old longboard and teach yourself to cross-step. Not shuffle - but actually cross one foot over the other on the way up and down the board."
Nick Carroll lauding the longboard as all round surf improver in The Complete guide to Surfing Your Best Volume 2.
May 14, 2010
May 13, 2010
Have you ever been hooted as you take the drop on a set wave? I have. Often I've face planted moments later. Thankfully not every time. I like to think I don't surf for anyone else's approval, but it sure feels good to get a hoot every now and then. The best is when your mate's on the shoulder hooting as you get spat out of a tube. And even visa versa.
These days I have an aversion to large multinational surf companies, but one of them had a particularly 'true' slogan 'only a surfer knows the feeling'. Seeing another surfer get a great wave often makes us stoked because we know how it feels and we end up vicariously surfing their wave. I think that's why I enjoy watching great surf movies over and over again. Anyway enough raving. Hoot freely.
May 12, 2010
May 11, 2010
May 10, 2010
"Surfing is the endless search for an uncrowded beach, the perfect wave."
So said Fred Wardy in 1965 (Surfer Magazine August 2005). I'm pretty sure this is Wayne who re-tiled our bathroom recently. A speed run to himself on a beach not renowned for solitude.