May 31, 2010

Far Away

Far away from the grey and wet conditions of late.

May 30, 2010


The best time in your surfing life, when nearly every ride is your best wave ever.

May 29, 2010


Any other Tom Curren fans out there? Check his first surf at Jeffreys Bay in 1992.

May 28, 2010

Morning Surf

Early surfers in early Autumn.
Another time killer, check out my favourite surf art blog.

May 27, 2010

Distant Wave

And no surfer joes in sight.
Hey if it's wet and your killing time check this Scrapertown video.

May 25, 2010

Photo Op

One for the camera.

May 24, 2010

Yes Please

I'll have what he's having.

May 23, 2010

Sailor's Warning?

Some foul wether set in not long after this early morning session. Maybe it should be 'red or yellowy orange sky in morning sailors take warning'.

May 21, 2010


What goes up must come down. Not always according to plan, but probably like a close out tube ride - still feels good.

May 20, 2010

The Source

Turning back to the source.

May 19, 2010


Could be a Layne Beachley or Steph Gilmore of the future.

May 18, 2010


Some really fun lefts from an early Autumn morning.

May 17, 2010

Dan Santangelo

Trained my camera further down beach one morning to capture this text book roundhouse. Closer inspection revealed it to be the handiwork of my near neighbour Dan Santangelo. Dan's a local custom board builder, his shapes are under the feet of plenty surfers on the coast. Check out his sleds here

May 16, 2010

Grom Attack

Tidy grom hack.

May 15, 2010


"Go get a big old longboard and teach yourself to cross-step. Not shuffle - but actually cross one foot over the other on the way up and down the board."
Nick Carroll lauding the longboard as all round surf improver in The Complete guide to Surfing Your Best Volume 2.

May 14, 2010

Surfing Is

"Surfing is riding a wave. That's it. Doesn't matter what on. It's just riding a wave."
Matt Hoy in Surfing World 292 (2008).

May 13, 2010


Have you ever been hooted as you take the drop on a set wave? I have. Often I've face planted moments later. Thankfully not every time. I like to think I don't surf for anyone else's approval, but it sure feels good to get a hoot every now and then. The best is when your mate's on the shoulder hooting as you get spat out of a tube. And even visa versa. 

These days I have an aversion to large multinational surf companies, but one of them had a particularly 'true' slogan 'only a surfer knows the feeling'. Seeing another surfer get a great wave often makes us stoked because we know how it feels and we end up vicariously surfing their wave. I think that's why I enjoy watching great surf movies over and over again. Anyway enough raving. Hoot freely.

May 12, 2010

The Fan

"A fan of spray off a carving turn. Usually executed at the top of the wave face or lip. Makes a nice show for the crew."
As defined by, just in case you were wondering...

May 11, 2010


"The trials reap great rewards when it all comes together."
Nathan Myers in Surfing World 291 (2008). Brett being rewarded for getting out of bed early.

May 10, 2010

An Uncrowded Beach

"Surfing is the endless search for an uncrowded beach, the perfect wave."
So said Fred Wardy in 1965 (Surfer Magazine August 2005). I'm pretty sure this is Wayne who re-tiled our bathroom recently. A speed run to himself on a beach not renowned for solitude. 

May 9, 2010

May 8, 2010

Not Epic

It wasn't epic just really fun. Blue sky, warm water and plenty of waves to go around. Another recent Saturday in Autumn. 

May 7, 2010

Green & Gold

Stoked to call Australia home.

May 6, 2010


Nice to spend a quiet surf with a friend. Katherine and Cindy sharing a few slides at Terrigal.

May 5, 2010

Close Outs

Mid last week. Only three guys out. It was closing but they were having fun. That is the point after all.

May 4, 2010

May 3, 2010


Early morning head dipping.

May 2, 2010


Only two out on this fun little reef last month.

May 1, 2010


Recent Saturday morning. Weekend warriors delight. Pinch and a punch too.