September 23, 2012

The Heart & The Sea

Nathan Oldfield's a local surf film maker and this is a peek into his upcoming movie due out later this year. Looks really cool.

September 21, 2012

September 19, 2012

September 17, 2012

September 14, 2012


Autumn point sliding.

September 12, 2012

Daily Juice

(With an accent) Orange you glad you got out of bed early this morning?!  Sorry ; )

September 10, 2012

September 7, 2012

Child's Play

Piaget described playing as the serious business of childhood. It's something I love about surfing - people well beyond their childhood years "playing" in the surf, doing something for the pure enjoyment of it. Plenty of adults make no time for something this frivolous in their lives. Although many other people enjoy different playful pursuits, for me none I've experienced are near as engrossing as surfing. The plan is to keep playing in the ocean as long as I have breath. What a privilege it is to surf.

September 5, 2012

Tony Rides Again

A man frequently found in the morning surf of this particular stretch of sand.

September 3, 2012

Wild Seas

No takers out there on this winters morn.