December 31, 2010

Surfing Resolutions

More barrels, better turns, more dawnies... Another year down, time flies when you're having fun! 

December 30, 2010

December 29, 2010

Desperate Measures

You know it's small when dedicated shortboarders are out on longboards!

December 26, 2010

A Quiet Corner

Safe travels if you're on the roads and may the swell be with us.

December 25, 2010

Down Beach

Season's greetings to you and yours :)

December 23, 2010

Not To Mind

"I have noticed that those who are very enthusiastic seem not to mind a wait, while others roundly cuss things in general and quickly give up and paddle to shore."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935.

December 22, 2010

December 21, 2010

December 20, 2010

December 19, 2010

December 18, 2010

December 17, 2010

December 16, 2010

The Present

"Surfing happens best when it's in the present; the past is behind and the future is not yet. The only thing of interest is what's here and now."
Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008).

December 14, 2010

December 13, 2010

December 12, 2010

December 11, 2010

Backwash Casualty

She strikes again...

December 10, 2010

December 9, 2010

December 8, 2010

December 6, 2010

December 5, 2010


The beach can be a great place to be absorbed in reflection, but often being out in the surf is so engrossing that there's no time for any thought other than the next move as we negotiate the ever moving ocean as it shifts under, around and sometimes right on top of us...

December 4, 2010

December 3, 2010


"An unbelievable sense of accomplishment goes with a successful ride."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935

December 2, 2010

December 1, 2010

November 29, 2010

November 28, 2010

November 27, 2010

November 26, 2010

November 25, 2010


Another much older shot. Years ago on a summer sojourn up and down the coast chasing waves, I was flying solo in my first car with a couple of boards while on uni holidays. Free as a bird without a care in the world.

November 24, 2010

November 23, 2010

Hand Dragging

Hugh Daugaard enjoying one of surfing's more subtle pleasures.

November 20, 2010

Powerful Influence

"The actual riding of big surf for a few hours, I can say, has a powerful influence towards making one forget his real and imaginary troubles."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935 (originally titled Hawaiian Surfboard). It's a great read. Tom is regularly named as the second most influential surfer of the 20th century, only behind the Duke himself. His most widely known contribution to surfing was pioneering the use of fins on surfboards.

November 19, 2010

November 18, 2010

November 17, 2010

November 16, 2010

November 15, 2010

Clean Swell

An old favourite from years ago. A great couple of days surfing and camping in the Great Lakes region.