March 30, 2011

March 26, 2011

Gerry Remembers

"Everyone took turns catching waves and always knew whose turn it was. Sometimes friends, or even strangers, caught the same wave and rode it together... happily"

Gerry Lopez on early 60s Hawaii in his book Surf Is Where you find It (2008).

March 25, 2011

March 23, 2011

March 22, 2011

Rally Tomorrow

From the NO SHIP crew. Well worth supporting. The ocean's not a dump.

March 21, 2011


A break with a fairly tight take off area, after long summer flat spell, in the holiday period, regulars and weekend warriors alike hungry for waves... busy.

Speaking of busy, I'm finding it a bit of a stretch to keep the posts coming thick and fast. So they might come a bit less often for a while, but they'll keep coming.

March 19, 2011

Sealegged Surfboards

Sealegged Surfboards from Thomas Stockwell on Vimeo.

More and more surfers seem to be discovering the massive amounts of stoke that varied surfcraft can give. There's no denying the shreddability of a super light 6'0 thruster, but there's a whole bunch of cool sensations to be had on a wave that these boards can't provide. And as anyone with a well stocked quiver knows, there's always boards that go better in specific conditions. Azz from Sealegged Surfboards rides what he shapes and has a surf stoked grin to prove it. He's a local Central Coast surfer-shaper making old school longboards, fishes, quads, mid lengths and more. Here's a little taste of what he does and some contact details. Catch up with him and have a yarn about riding your own completely hand made, customized surfboard.

March 18, 2011

Just Surf It

Whatever board, whatever waves, get out there.

March 17, 2011

March 14, 2011

Morning Glare

Rise & shine, squint & squat, slip & slide.

March 8, 2011

Go Fast

'Cause it feels good.

March 7, 2011

Autumn A-Frame

One trip I will never forget. Solo camping and surfing in the dunes of this south coast beachie for a week or so. Over ten years ago now, I've never ridden backhand barrels as good since. Will have to repeat that trip before too long. Hoping to see a few of these around home in the months ahead.

March 4, 2011

March 2, 2011

Blokes Learning

Learning to surf as anyone who has ever tried knows, is far easier said than done. Maybe especially if you don't start out as a nimble 8 year old. Still plenty of fun of course, especially when torpedoing your mates best ride yet!

March 1, 2011


Paying homage to what I reckon is the premier season of the year, welcome Autumn. The water and weather are still warm, there's more offshores and swell, and the sky is even "bluer". This was one of my favourite morning surfs from last year. Seriously fun.