September 30, 2010

Grey Day

One month of Spring down and it's been surprisingly good with a consistent run of south swells keeping us busy.

September 29, 2010

September 28, 2010

Grom Zone

School holidays are on. Grommies will no doubt be surfing themselves ragged all over the coast. This was a small Autumn arvo and they were all over it.

September 27, 2010

September 26, 2010


It's a bit of a bummer when you turn up to your go-to spot with the right swell & wind only to find the lack of sand, or the shape of the sand rendering the surf pretty much useless. It's a real bummer when it happens again & again for what seems like forever! The waves above are of course benefiting from some well placed sand, good times.

September 25, 2010

V Bottom Slide

Local surfboard restorer David Platt sliding what from memory was first surf on a freshly restored vintage v bottom. Having a load of fun too. 

September 23, 2010

September 22, 2010

Two Ways

Right & left, under & over. I think both came unstuck, but I'd assume fun was had for both. And as I often repeat, that's what it's all about.

September 21, 2010

September 20, 2010

September 19, 2010

September 18, 2010

September 17, 2010

September 16, 2010

September 15, 2010

Fire Sale

Until the end of the month you can purchase hi-res versions of any photos featured on the blog for $5 each (normally $10). Just let me know what you're after at

September 14, 2010

September 13, 2010

September 12, 2010

September 11, 2010

September 10, 2010

September 9, 2010

September 7, 2010

The Blues

Winter wishing.

September 6, 2010

September 5, 2010

September 4, 2010


Spitting beach barrel.

September 3, 2010

Early Riding

Polynesians in general, especially Hawaiians, and now even the Peruvians are among the very early known surfers. Maybe we could also add Paul the Apostle:
"And falling into a place where the two seas met, they ran the ship aground; and the forepart stuck fast, and remained unmoveable, but the hinder part was broken with the violence of the waves... they which could swim cast themselves into the sea... And the rest, some on boards, and some on broken pieces of the ship. And so it came to pass, that they escaped all safe to land."
There you have it, "some on boards" off the island of Malta around 60 AD. As recorded in Acts 27. Not to mention Jesus walking on water! 

September 2, 2010

Last Summer

Wasn't all bad!

September 1, 2010

Pinch & a Punch

Although the water's still cold, Winter is officially over and Spring is here. It's good and bad. Summer's coming with warm weather and water but lackluster surf and crowds... I've been enjoying taking pictures of flowers lately, likely to be a few more yet. Wouldn't it be great if Spring defied all expectations and was the pick surf season for once! Here's hoping...