One month of Spring down and it's been surprisingly good with a consistent run of south swells keeping us busy.
September 28, 2010
September 26, 2010
It's a bit of a bummer when you turn up to your go-to spot with the right swell & wind only to find the lack of sand, or the shape of the sand rendering the surf pretty much useless. It's a real bummer when it happens again & again for what seems like forever! The waves above are of course benefiting from some well placed sand, good times.
September 25, 2010
September 22, 2010
September 20, 2010
September 15, 2010
September 13, 2010
September 10, 2010
September 9, 2010
September 3, 2010
Polynesians in general, especially Hawaiians, and now even the Peruvians are among the very early known surfers. Maybe we could also add Paul the Apostle:
"And falling into a place where the two seas met, they ran the ship aground; and the forepart stuck fast, and remained unmoveable, but the hinder part was broken with the violence of the waves... they which could swim cast themselves into the sea... And the rest, some on boards, and some on broken pieces of the ship. And so it came to pass, that they escaped all safe to land."
There you have it, "some on boards" off the island of Malta around 60 AD. As recorded in Acts 27. Not to mention Jesus walking on water!
September 1, 2010
Although the water's still cold, Winter is officially over and Spring is here. It's good and bad. Summer's coming with warm weather and water but lackluster surf and crowds... I've been enjoying taking pictures of flowers lately, likely to be a few more yet. Wouldn't it be great if Spring defied all expectations and was the pick surf season for once! Here's hoping...