January 24, 2015
I know it doesn't look that much, but I was standing alone on a foreign shore, and the sun hadn't risen yet – I quickly took this photo and then gorged myself on these very enjoyable waves for 3 hours. I surfed alone for at least half the time before a few other mellow guys showed up. Most waves were around shoulder high and began with a fast hollow section in front of the rocks and then wrapped more into the point where there was room for a bunch of turns before paddling back for more. They don't happen like that every day, one for the memory bank for sure.
January 15, 2015
Back in 2012 (yep that's how up-to-date and current this blog is!) we had a short winter break on the sand bottomed points of Sri Lanka. "We" being Katherine, our 1 year old son and my brother Jack. Very enjoyable all round.