Far Away

Far away from the grey and wet conditions of late.

Best

The best time in your surfing life, when nearly every ride is your best wave ever.

Ouch..

Any other Tom Curren fans out there? Check his first surf at Jeffreys Bay in 1992.

Morning Surf

Early surfers in early Autumn.

Another time killer, check out my favourite surf art blog.

Distant Wave

And no surfer joes in sight.
Hey if it's wet and your killing time check this Scrapertown video.

Late Cruise

Photo Op

One for the camera.

Yes Please

I'll have what he's having.

Sailor's Warning?

Some foul wether set in not long after this early morning session. Maybe it should be 'red or yellowy orange sky in morning sailors take warning'.

Point Style

Gravity

What goes up must come down. Not always according to plan, but probably like a close out tube ride - still feels good.

The Source

Turning back to the source.

Gromette

Could be a Layne Beachley or Steph Gilmore of the future.

Lefts

Some really fun lefts from an early Autumn morning.

Dan Santangelo

Trained my camera further down beach one morning to capture this text book roundhouse. Closer inspection revealed it to be the handiwork of my near neighbour Dan Santangelo. Dan's a local custom board builder, his shapes are under the feet of plenty surfers on the coast. Check out his sleds here. 

Grom Attack

Tidy grom hack.

Cross-Step

"Go get a big old longboard and teach yourself to cross-step. Not shuffle - but actually cross one foot over the other on the way up and down the board."

Nick Carroll lauding the longboard as all round surf improver in The Complete guide to Surfing Your Best Volume 2.

Surfing Is

"Surfing is riding a wave. That's it. Doesn't matter what on. It's just riding a wave."

Matt Hoy in Surfing World 292 (2008).

Hooting

Have you ever been hooted as you take the drop on a set wave? I have. Often I've face planted moments later. Thankfully not every time. I like to think I don't surf for anyone else's approval, but it sure feels good to get a hoot every now and then. The best is when your mate's on the shoulder hooting as you get spat out of a tube. And even visa versa. 

These days I have an aversion to large multinational surf companies, but one of them had a particularly 'true' slogan 'only a surfer knows the feeling'. Seeing another surfer get a great wave often makes us stoked because we know how it feels and we end up vicariously surfing their wave. I think that's why I enjoy watching great surf movies over and over again. Anyway enough raving. Hoot freely.

The Fan

"A fan of spray off a carving turn. Usually executed at the top of the wave face or lip. Makes a nice show for the crew."

As defined by riptionary.com, just in case you were wondering...

Rewards

"The trials reap great rewards when it all comes together."

Nathan Myers in Surfing World 291 (2008). Brett being rewarded for getting out of bed early.

An Uncrowded Beach

"Surfing is the endless search for an uncrowded beach, the perfect wave."

So said Fred Wardy in 1965 (Surfer Magazine August 2005). I'm pretty sure this is Wayne who re-tiled our bathroom recently. A speed run to himself on a beach not renowned for solitude. 

Red

Not Epic

It wasn't epic just really fun. Blue sky, warm water and plenty of waves to go around. Another recent Saturday in Autumn. 

Green & Gold

Stoked to call Australia home.

Friends

Nice to spend a quiet surf with a friend. Katherine and Cindy sharing a few slides at Terrigal.

Close Outs

Mid last week. Only three guys out. It was closing but they were having fun. That is the point after all.

Ace Air

Dippin'

Early morning head dipping.

Two

Only two out on this fun little reef last month.

Saturdays

Recent Saturday morning. Weekend warriors delight. Pinch and a punch too.