Planet Patterns

Surfing... "tunes us into the cyclical patterns of the planet: seasons and weather systems, swells and tides - what we might consider the Earth's natural pulse. And when we are in touch with the pulse of the planet, perhaps we are less likely to trash the place."

Tim Baker in High Surf (2007) 

Place To Be

Flat?

This was probably 6 months ago now. It looks and for all intents and purposes is dead flat. But I was stoked to find really rideable knee to thigh high runners at the very next beach. No photo evidence here, I was too busy surfing. Pays to look around.

Rocky Point

Not in Hawaii, just a fun rocky point round here. Check out this rad animated surf flick.

Azza & Shelly

Sharing some late arvo slides at one of their favourite north ends. Check out Azza's Sea Legged blog.

In Byron

Around 18 months ago we were passing through Byron and had a fun surf out at The Pass. Some local surfers up there run a daily photo site featuring people surfing and hanging out in Byron Bay. I was pleasantly surprised to find this shot of myself on their page. Check it out - In Byron Bay Today

Cooler

The water's finally cooled off now. These shots are from a fun day around two months ago. There's not many who haven't donned the steamer now.

Lighter

Apparently we've just passed the shortest day of the year for daylight around here. I know I'm looking forward to having more surfable hours in the day. Pretty happy I don't live at the South Pole too.

Supreme Pleasure

"I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea."

Captain James Cook in Tahiti 1777

Serious Stoke

Serious amount of stoke here and classic dismount to finish.

Point Carve

Beach Barrel

Groms on Point

Early

Seeing the sunrise from the lineup always makes me stoked.

Bird Watch

Split Peak

Left and right. A bit of simple communication goes a long way.

Drop

Winter Wishing

Are you over Winter already? I reckon Summer and it's mostly marginal conditions will be back before we know it. Then we'll be hanging out for Autumn and Winter again... Here's one of the better mornings back in January.

Close Outs

I reckon I've ridden a stack of close outs so far this year. The sand's been really average. I'm wondering is it because there was very little north swell to shape it? A penny for your thoughts, so to speak...

Empty

Mid North Coast. Years ago. We didn't even surf it, another beach nearby was even better.

Ladies Day

Dear & Yonder is cool surf movie featuring heaps of great female surfers. Well worth a look even for  a bloke I reckon. Check it here.

Sunset Fun

"The faster I go out there, the slower things seem to happen"

Gerry Lopez in Surfboards by Guy Motil (2007)

Central Coast Sickness

There's no place like home. 

Colours

While I'm getting a bit arty, have you seen The Present? It grew on me, the right point in Africa was totally sick.

Wishing & Waiting

Wishing, waiting and scoring.

Booger Watch

Classic Autumn beachie from Thursday May 13. Jake Foster put together a cool vid featuring a bunch of local pros negotiating some decent tubes on the same morning. Check it out here.

Surfing Would Be

"Surfing would be nothing without grommets... it'd be a stale, dying pastime. Grommets bring life to the sport."

Nick Carroll in Kurungaba (2008 Vol.1 Issue 2)

Ancient Pastime

"In Hawaii... ancient kings and queens dedicated themselves to perfecting the art of 'he'e nalu', a poetic Polynesian term roughly translated as 'wave sliding'."

Brendan McAloon in Deep Water - Travel Stories and The Search for The Perfect Wave (2009).

Dance

"Just let me do my dance. Don't put me in a box and tell me how and what I have to do. Let the artist paint the picture, be it classic or progressive."

Bill Stewart in Surfer (August 2005)

Beach Power

"The amount of energy in the waves that reach only our shores each year is equivalent to probably twice the world's current power usage" 

Dr Tom Dennis in Surfing World 292 (2008)