More barrels, better turns, more dawnies... Another year down, time flies when you're having fun!
December 31, 2010
December 30, 2010
December 29, 2010
December 28, 2010
December 27, 2010
December 26, 2010
December 25, 2010
December 24, 2010
December 23, 2010
Not To Mind
"I have noticed that those who are very enthusiastic seem not to mind a wait, while others roundly cuss things in general and quickly give up and paddle to shore."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935.
December 22, 2010
December 21, 2010
December 20, 2010
December 19, 2010
December 18, 2010
December 17, 2010
December 16, 2010
The Present
"Surfing happens best when it's in the present; the past is behind and the future is not yet. The only thing of interest is what's here and now."
Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008).
December 15, 2010
December 14, 2010
December 13, 2010
December 12, 2010
December 11, 2010
December 10, 2010
December 9, 2010
December 8, 2010
December 7, 2010
December 6, 2010
December 5, 2010
Muse
The beach can be a great place to be absorbed in reflection, but often being out in the surf is so engrossing that there's no time for any thought other than the next move as we negotiate the ever moving ocean as it shifts under, around and sometimes right on top of us...
December 4, 2010
December 3, 2010
Accomplishment
"An unbelievable sense of accomplishment goes with a successful ride."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935
December 2, 2010
December 1, 2010
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