August 17, 2010
August 16, 2010
Worm Catching
Brett's a routine before work surfer, yet again illustrating the old adage "the early bird catches the worm".
August 15, 2010
August 14, 2010
August 13, 2010
August 12, 2010
August 11, 2010
August 10, 2010
Your Own Line
"You can't be at the pole and the equator at the same time. You must choose your own line, as I hope to do, and it will probably be colour."Vincent van Gogh
August 9, 2010
Places on a Wave
"I'm struggling to find new places I can go on a wave. On tour you're trying to find places on the wave you've visited before. You're not looking for new territory."
Dane Reynolds in Surfing World 304 (2010). Yeah that's why I don't bother with the tour...
August 8, 2010
August 7, 2010
August 6, 2010
August 5, 2010
Surfing Truth
When I started this Surfer Joe blog I wrote a personal photo philosophy, it's at the top right of the page. In part it says:
"I also shoot all kinds of conditions. From ankle high to way overhead, from onshore and grey to offshore and perfect. The consistently perfect waves so common in surf mags often leave us with unrealistic expectations of what good surf is. It doesn't have to be 6 feet and slabbing to have fun. Surfer Joe features everyday surfers enjoying everyday conditions. I hope it makes you feel like surfing."
But I've come to realise this is only partly true. When I trawl through my photos looking for something to post I can't help gravitating towards photos of better waves and conditions. It is true there are very few large and perfect waves, but there are also very few completely unappealing, small, onshore, grey waves either. Whatever the type of waves featured I am sure of two things; it's about everyday surfers and I hope it makes you feel like surfing.
August 4, 2010
August 3, 2010
August 2, 2010
August 1, 2010
July 31, 2010
July 30, 2010
July 29, 2010
July 28, 2010
July 27, 2010
Be Happy
"If we can't be happy and friendly in the water, where can we? ... Everyone has their best surfs when they're happy."
Robbie Page in The Surfer's Journal (vol 18 no.4)
July 26, 2010
Long or Light
I had a few days up north recently chasing some point surf. We missed the brunt of the swell but enjoyed the dregs. You either had to ride something longer or weigh in around 40kg.
July 25, 2010
July 24, 2010
Holidays
"Be a little more tolerant of the beginners, because we were all beginners at one time too."
Gerry Lopez in The Surfer's Journal (Vol 18 No.4) It was great seeing a bunch of groms doing their thing in the recent school holidays.
July 23, 2010
Go Leashless
"Go Leashless. There's something liberating about being unattached. It raises the stakes during even the most modest session, especially if it's your buddy's board. Plus the swim in is good for you."
No. 16 of Surfer magazine's 67 Things You Must Do Before You Die (August 2006).
July 22, 2010
July 21, 2010
July 20, 2010
July 19, 2010
July 18, 2010
July 17, 2010
July 16, 2010
July 15, 2010
July 14, 2010
July 13, 2010
July 12, 2010
July 11, 2010
Smiler
Ben enjoying an afternoon slide at his home beach. Whenever I see him out he's always smiling. And if as its been said many times before; the best surfer is the one having the most fun, then Ben is among the most advanced in our sport/pastime/art/lifestyle/addiction... call it what you will! Whatever it is, it's all about the fun : )
July 10, 2010
July 9, 2010
Remember Summer?
Oh to be in board shorts with the hot sun beating down. Although to be fair the surf itself was pretty lousy last summer. And cool water aside we've been enjoying consistent swell and plenty of clean offshores lately. Some of you are lucky enough (Trev!) to be heading to Indo for some winter respite. Have a tube or three for me mate.
July 8, 2010
Morning Wall
"The equipment the best guys are using, in many sports, is often not suitable nor applicable to the average joe."
So said the King. Kelly Slater in Surfing World 294 (2009)
July 7, 2010
Danger
I know plenty of you would run straight past the danger sign without thought, considering these idyllic conditions. But I can remember earlier in my own learning continuum, somehow making it out the back on a day like this and spending an hour or more trying to pluck up the courage to catch just one wave back to the safety of the shore! I guess it's relative to where you're at with your surfing. On Sunday's post I joked about a shorey being a rat shack and now I've just come across this surfing mice video. Soon they'll be selling rodent surf gear too...
July 6, 2010
One for One
"If alternatives exist in ways to turn the fun on then there's more health all around. Whatever gives you the fun. Go for it."
Derek Hynd in Surfing World 296 (2009)
July 5, 2010
Different Ways
Different ways to start the day. By the way, I went for an early surf last Wednesday and there was frost on the sand! I have never experienced that before. The water was fine, it was just the run across the beach that was painful. I don't think I'm ready for a surf trip to Antarctica just yet.
July 4, 2010
July 3, 2010
July 2, 2010
Spray It
"I think when surfing gets in your blood, it's like having saltwater in the veins. You just feel a mad hankering to get out there."
Stuart Bedford-Brown in Surfing World 293 (2009)
July 1, 2010
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