"The actual riding of big surf for a few hours, I can say, has a powerful influence towards making one forget his real and imaginary troubles."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935 (originally titled Hawaiian Surfboard). It's a great read. Tom is regularly named as the second most influential surfer of the 20th century, only behind the Duke himself. His most widely known contribution to surfing was pioneering the use of fins on surfboards.