Here's 20 of my favourite posts from this year. No Indonesian perfection, but a bunch of good times around home.
December 26, 2012
December 19, 2012
Last Time
December 13, 2012
December 5, 2012
November 29, 2012
November 21, 2012
November 14, 2012
Lone Ranger
This guy was all alone on this solid winter morning. He picked off this much smaller inside wave before a set exploded further out.
November 7, 2012
October 31, 2012
Three Riding Two Waiting
I know I know, not a particularly imaginitive post title today. A few shots from different spots at different times of year. By the way, life is busy, I'm going to be posting once a week for a while...
October 24, 2012
October 19, 2012
Point Flashes
You know those days at a southern corner or point when there's flashes of strong sunlight between the greyness and a few of the softer sorts have been scared away by the odd rain squall, good times.
October 16, 2012
October 12, 2012
October 9, 2012
October 5, 2012
October 2, 2012
September 28, 2012
September 25, 2012
September 23, 2012
The Heart & The Sea
Nathan Oldfield's a local surf film maker and this is a peek into his upcoming movie due out later this year. Looks really cool.
September 21, 2012
September 19, 2012
September 17, 2012
September 14, 2012
September 12, 2012
September 10, 2012
September 7, 2012
Child's Play
Piaget described playing as the serious business of childhood. It's something I love about surfing - people well beyond their childhood years "playing" in the surf, doing something for the pure enjoyment of it. Plenty of adults make no time for something this frivolous in their lives. Although many other people enjoy different playful pursuits, for me none I've experienced are near as engrossing as surfing. The plan is to keep playing in the ocean as long as I have breath. What a privilege it is to surf.
September 5, 2012
September 3, 2012
August 31, 2012
August 29, 2012
August 27, 2012
August 24, 2012
Returning
The cutback is a classic surfing foundation. It's probably second only to the bottom hand turn, forever keeping us close to the source.
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