September 7, 2012

Child's Play

Piaget described playing as the serious business of childhood. It's something I love about surfing - people well beyond their childhood years "playing" in the surf, doing something for the pure enjoyment of it. Plenty of adults make no time for something this frivolous in their lives. Although many other people enjoy different playful pursuits, for me none I've experienced are near as engrossing as surfing. The plan is to keep playing in the ocean as long as I have breath. What a privilege it is to surf.

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