September 28, 2012
September 25, 2012
September 23, 2012
The Heart & The Sea
Nathan Oldfield's a local surf film maker and this is a peek into his upcoming movie due out later this year. Looks really cool.
September 21, 2012
September 19, 2012
September 17, 2012
September 14, 2012
September 12, 2012
September 10, 2012
September 7, 2012
Child's Play
Piaget described playing as the serious business of childhood. It's something I love about surfing - people well beyond their childhood years "playing" in the surf, doing something for the pure enjoyment of it. Plenty of adults make no time for something this frivolous in their lives. Although many other people enjoy different playful pursuits, for me none I've experienced are near as engrossing as surfing. The plan is to keep playing in the ocean as long as I have breath. What a privilege it is to surf.
September 5, 2012
September 3, 2012
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