Trimming through the foam in style. There's plenty of valid criteria on what "good" surfing is - effortlessness, flow, critical positioning, power etc, but I reckon in my mix there's got to be something about making the most of a wave - completing the ride, every last bit of trim. This idea probably extends into riding all kinds of boards and surfing all kinds of conditions, appreciating the chance to get out in the ocean and passionately do something that some might describe as pointless. But they don't get it. Some surfers don't even get it. Jim does.
No comments:
Post a Comment