January 24, 2015

Very Enjoyable Surfing

I know it doesn't look that much, but I was standing alone on a foreign shore, and the sun hadn't risen yet – I quickly took this photo and then gorged myself on these very enjoyable waves for 3 hours. I surfed alone for at least half the time before a few other mellow guys showed up. Most waves were around shoulder high and began with a fast hollow section in front of the rocks and then wrapped more into the point where there was room for a bunch of turns before paddling back for more. They don't happen like that every day, one for the memory bank for sure.

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