December 18, 2010

December 17, 2010

December 16, 2010

The Present

"Surfing happens best when it's in the present; the past is behind and the future is not yet. The only thing of interest is what's here and now."
Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008).

December 14, 2010

December 13, 2010

December 12, 2010

December 11, 2010

Backwash Casualty

She strikes again...

December 10, 2010

December 9, 2010

December 8, 2010

December 6, 2010

December 5, 2010

Muse


The beach can be a great place to be absorbed in reflection, but often being out in the surf is so engrossing that there's no time for any thought other than the next move as we negotiate the ever moving ocean as it shifts under, around and sometimes right on top of us...

December 4, 2010

December 3, 2010

Accomplishment

"An unbelievable sense of accomplishment goes with a successful ride."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935

December 2, 2010

December 1, 2010

November 29, 2010

November 28, 2010

November 27, 2010

November 26, 2010

November 25, 2010

Free



Another much older shot. Years ago on a summer sojourn up and down the coast chasing waves, I was flying solo in my first car with a couple of boards while on uni holidays. Free as a bird without a care in the world.

November 24, 2010

November 23, 2010

Hand Dragging



Hugh Daugaard enjoying one of surfing's more subtle pleasures.

November 20, 2010

Powerful Influence


"The actual riding of big surf for a few hours, I can say, has a powerful influence towards making one forget his real and imaginary troubles."
Tom Blake in Hawaiian Surfriders 1935 (originally titled Hawaiian Surfboard). It's a great read. Tom is regularly named as the second most influential surfer of the 20th century, only behind the Duke himself. His most widely known contribution to surfing was pioneering the use of fins on surfboards.

November 19, 2010

November 18, 2010

November 17, 2010

November 16, 2010

November 15, 2010

Clean Swell



An old favourite from years ago. A great couple of days surfing and camping in the Great Lakes region.

November 14, 2010

November 13, 2010

November 12, 2010

Hooked


"It's incredible that after almost 50 years of surfing, I can still remember those first few waves like they were yesterday. What's even more amazing is that riding them is still the only thing I want to do: keep surfing."
Gerry Lopez in Surf Is Where You Find It (2008). 

Long Blue



November 11, 2010

November 10, 2010

Last Summer



We're in our final month of Spring and on average it has actually been pretty good for what is often the worst surf season. Our other not so good surf season of Summer is close now. Here's one of the better mornings from January this year.

November 8, 2010

Surfer Joes



In case you're wondering what this blog's about... Surfer Joes are everyday average surfers who happen to be out there while I'm taking photos. Anyone can turn up here, you don't have to be sponsored, cool, ride a certain board or know me. I just shoot whoever's out there. As you can see often in average conditions too. It's good to be reminded that we can enjoy it even when it's not 'surf-mag' perfect.

November 7, 2010

November 5, 2010

November 3, 2010

Back Beach



Seeking shelter from the prevailing Summer winds at a well worn NE option.

November 2, 2010

November 1, 2010