Azza. Living, learning, swimming. You're in good company mate, here's what Derek Hynd had to say on the matter:
"A lost art in surfing is the bloody swim to the beach... getting washed in and thinking during the swims. Aside from the aerobics, the minute or so is easy time to reflect on what you did wrong."
Surfing World 296 in 2009
im also so prone to stupid mistakes, thats learning though i guess
ReplyDeletehey Josh, good to know I'm not alone : )
ReplyDelete